Saalburg

Saalburg

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 | Updated: Mar 16, 2023

The ancient Roman provinces making up Germania were at the frontier between what was Rome and the unsubdued Germanic tribes. The exact path of the frontier changed over time due to the pressure exerted by threats outside of the empire but the length was approximately 350 miles and had 60 forts with an additional 900 watchtowers guarding the waterways, roads and hill tops.

The Saalburg is one such fort, and began life around AD 81 and eventually developed to house a 500 man unit. It is typical in that it forms a rectangle with 4 gates, with towers over the gates, and a ditch surrounding the fort.

Today, the reconstructed fort has walls, gates, two troop barracks, along with other buildings that are used as a museum but the fort would have had many more buildings - more barracks, store rooms, grain stores, workshops, and stables. Nonetheless, even without these the fort has been reconstructed to such an impressive extent that one can almost hear the march of troops across the parade square.

It was eventually abandoned during the Crisis of the Third Century. This period, also known as Military Anarchy or the Imperial Crisis, nearly resulted in the collapse of the Roman Empire but was saved due to reforms and the implementation of the Tetrarchy (simultaneous rule by four emperors).

This crisis began in AD 235 with the assassination of Emperor Severus Alexander. The Empire faced the combined pressures of barbarian invasions and migrations into Roman territory, civil wars as emperors came and went, and general political instability as each new pretender found seizing the throne easier than holding it. The Plague of Cyprian also decimated the population and ran from AD 249 to AD 262 causing man power shortages at just the point manpower was needed to fight off invaders. Extreme weather events led to agricultural decline and this would also have contributed to the migrations as people searched for more productive regions. In all, it was a perfect storm. 

Despite the crisis being eventually averted, the Roman Empire in the West had already started its death spiral and would struggle on for another 241 years, bringing to an end an empire that started as a monarchy in BC 753, changed to a republic in 509 BC, became an empire in 27 BC and ended as the Western Roman Empire in AD 476, though in the east and centred on Constantinople it lasted almost another 1000 years until AD 1453.


The Highlights

  1. Stand at the end of the Roman world and guard the Limes Germanicus.
  2. Walk the fortress walls and imagine what lay beyond the safety of the Empire
  3. Experience the well laid out barracks of a Roman military unit.

Posted: Oct 29, 2010 | Updated: Jun 29, 2022

Visiting the Limes Germanicus

It wasn't until I arrived in Frankfurt that I discovered that this UNESCO monument actually existed. Just 25km from Frankfurt, I couldn't miss this unexpected opportunity to visit such a significant location and to imagine life back at the Roman frontier. My previous 'tour of duty' on the limes was at the northern frontier at Hadrian's Wall in the north of England when I walked it from West to East.

Being at the frontier again brings home just how big the Roman Empire was and what an accomplishment the pax Romana was - despite it being advanced at the tip of a gladius and pilum. When you stop to think how far away Hadrian's Wall is; weeks of marching, a trip across the English channel, and then another or week or so march north to reach the Wall, the Empire feels big. However, even at Saalburg, this feels a world away from the warm Mediterranean heart of the empire, and even further from the eastern Limes in the Middle East.

Saalburg started life as a simple wood and earth structure, evolving to become a dry built wood and stone wall structure. To become a more permanent and formidable part of the limes a larger fort with mortared stone walls replaced the earlier structure. The reconstructed fort represents this last architectural phase and includes the earlier phase defensive ditch. Approaching the full size fort and seeing the main gate and defensive towers loom into range got me immediately excited. The best forts on Hadrian's Wall require some interpretation but at Saalburg this is probably as close as you can get to entering a real Roman fort.

1) Saalburg - South facing Porta Praetoria (main gate)
2) Saalburg - South wall of the fort
3) Saalburg - South wall ditch
4) Saalburg - Horreum (grain store)
5) Saalburg - Porta Praetoria (looking out)
6) Saalburg - Barrack (looking east)
7) Saalburg - Barrack (looking west)
8) Saalburg - Barrack room
9) Saalburg - Porta Principalis Sinistra
10) Saalburg - Porta Principalis Sinistra (looking out)
11) Saalburg - Courtyard of the Principia (HQ)
12) Saalburg - Plan of Saalburg Fort

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