Bansko has developed considerably since I first visited in 2006 on a mission to buy a ski apartment. This was near the top of a roaring property market before it all turned sour in 2008. Roads have been laid, and nearby apartments have been built though there are a number of developments which are part built and may never be developed. Buying near the gondala station was a good move as this is a prime location and the area has has had the most investment. Just out of sight on the right is the main road and a short walk to the gondola station.

The old part of Bansko has many narrow cobbled 'streets' such as this. In my imagination the high walls suggest the dangers that lurked outside after dark. In fact the houses are 'fortress houses' as a number of people became very rich from trade and needed this protection.

The Sveta Troitsa Church looking from the main square of old Bansko.

Wandering Bansko in summer I came across the Velyanova House. The house is located near the centre of Banko, close to Sveta Troitsa Church so I'm guessing I missed it on my previous trips because in the winter the focus is more on getting from A to B and not falling over rather than a casual wander. Velyanova House is one of the oldest houses in Bansko and with its high walls is another 'fortress house'. The exterior is covered in frescoes, and inside are painted ceilings and fine carvings. Visit it to see a traditional mountain home.

During the summer the open veranda would have been used and has been comfortably furnished with a seating area, and a small hearth.

There are various rooms within the house; one is a large room where presumably the whole family gathered during the winter. It has a huge fireplace to keep away the mountain chills and to provide an area to cook. There was no information on the significance of this room in the photo.

Here we can see how the pristine slopes that we ski on during winter are actually hiding the environment damage that becomes visible during summer. We all want more runs in our favourite ski resorts but it comes at the price of soil erosion.

This is a small ski road that takes you gently down to the gondala that can take you back down to Bansko, or the lifts back up to the slopes. If returning to Bansko, the gondala can be avoided in favour of another gentle ski road which takes very little concentration and is a relaxing trip back.

During my time here the conditions were fantastic; plenty of snow, very little ice to come a cropper on, clear skies and sun. It also coincided with the Ladies Alpine Ski World Cup, a fantastic way of putting Bansko into the world's consciousness.

Because of the World Cup some of the slopes were out of bounds as these most challenging of slopes were reserved for the competitive skiers. This did not bother me as almost exactly one year ago I had my knee rebuilt because of a torn anterior cruciate ligament. I've learned to appreciate having the use of my legs even if I am a little uncertain at times and certain sports are now beyond my level of confidence.

Standing to the side of the track to avoid skiers, why do some people decide to stand in the middle, sometimes time in a dip and slightly concealed? Would you do the same on a busy road?

The steep Alberto Tomba run formed the final section of the course. Watching skiing on television fails to convey how fast the skiers go and how exhausting the event is. The competitors descended in a fraction of the time it took me and on this particular section, whilst I stop a number of times to relieve the pain screaming in my thighs and because I can't handle the speed, the competitors made it look easy as they fearlessly hurtled down the slope.

This mexana dates from 1869 and provides great atmosphere. It is located some way outside of the centre of Bansko, a little way off the beaten track and is frequented by Bulgarians which is a good sign. Money goes a long way in Bulgaria although the prices are inflated in Bansko compared to other parts of Bulgaria. This meal is the 'Pork knuckle' which surprisingly is pork, with potatoes. I had a salad starter and washed it all down with a bottle of red.

One of the aspects of Bulgaria I don't like is that smoking is permitted indoors. It will only be a matter of time before laws preventing this are drafted to bring Bulgaria in line with the other EU countries. The pork knuckle is coming up and is one of my favourites. The meat is very tender and flavoursome. And there is lots of it. I'll worry about bowel cancer later.

Beautiful crisp, deep snow in the town means a functioning ski road allowing skiers to a pleasant 16km ski back to the town. Some parts of the route are very steep in places but thankfully there are more gentle routes as well.

The start of the 15 minute journey to the mountain takes the traveller over the ski road heading to the town and gondala. It's going to be a great day of skiing.

The Vihren is the second highest mountain in Bulgaria, at 2914m, only 11m shy of Musala, the tallest in the Balkan Peninsula - but the Pirin range as a whole is a lot higher than Rila - there are two summits above 2900m, Vihren and Kutelo; seven above 2800m; 17 above 2700m; 32 above 2600m and 40 above 2500m and the highest granite peak in the Balkans is the Banderishki Chukar (2732m).

At the top of Vihren there is silence only broken by gusts of wind. People talk about the sense of awe and peacefulness of the mountains and standing on top of the Vihren is a humbling experience. I saw ski tracks in places I wouldn't dare to go.

For the business of signing over my new apartment I stayed in a 'hotel', or more like someone's home, away from the new tourist hotels and in the 'real' Bansko. From one of the windows of my hotel could be seen this view from what could be another age. It appears to be the first floor of a barn and has vegetables hanging outside. Beneath it were animals but I couldn't tell whether the upstairs was occupied. This traditional aspect of Bansko is a large part of the appeal.

Outside was also this horse being fed what looked to be corn.

There are two closely located squares in Bansko. This is the largest and main one. Nearby is Vazrazdane Square which has Sveta Troitsa Church, mehanas and a number of bars.

Bansko's signature feature is its many mehanas that offer regional delicacies. Many of them occupy authentic 19th century stone and timber buildings such as this one. Imagine the place covered in snow with the smell of wood burners on a cold night. Dinner, raki and wine after a day on the slopes!

This mixture of the old and the new can be seen in one of the side streets leading to Pirin Street which can be seen at the far end of this road.

As you walk around Bansko, particularly in the evening, burning wood in the woodburners of houses or mehanas can be smelled and can sometimes be quiet choking. This smell of wood smoke is most comforting especially in winter when cold and hungry, you step into a mehana and are seated close to a roaring fireplace for an evening of good food and good drink. All that PM2.5 in the crisp mountain air.

I might have mentioned elsewhere that instead of coming down the mountain into the town by gondala a ski road exists that offers a long and gentle ski back into town all the way from the mountain. My apartment is actually just off the ski road to give a from the slopes to ski home experience. Before I left for Sofia I spent an hour or so walking up the mountain road and enjoyed the smell and feel of autumn. At one point I left the road and slipped through the trees onto the ski road which can be seen here.

Bansko is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the mountain is a protected national park. For this reason, Bansko has a summer appeal and hiking, mountain biking and horse riding are popular activities. Plus there is also an annual summer music festival. The temperature in the summer is often in the high 20's and is known to reach 30 degrees Celsius.

Bulgaria is modernising but you can still scenes like this one on Pirin St.

The orthodox images of Christianity, even though they are modern, still retain that byzantine feel that can be seen in ancient monuments such as those in the home of orthodoxy, Istanbul. This part of Europe, once part of the Byzantine Empire eventually became part of the Muslim Ottoman Empire but the orthodox branch of Christianity was never extinguished. The writing says 'This is to glorify the Cross, the life giving, the togetherness, coming from The Union of the Holy Trinity, The Father , The Son and The Holy Spirit. This holy place for prayer, carrying the name The Holy Trinity was built with the help of Lazar Gerasimovitch who helped the local christians from the great village of Bansko in the summer of (year indeciperable)'

A nice day and a nice spot of a photo with the mountain sloping away and the Razlog valley behind.

Skiing down the mountain gives breath taking views of the surrounding area. This is even more remarkable when the snow has melted on the plains below the mountain.

Nick, who decided to learn how to snow board has found himself seriously out of his depth. He also wished that he learned skiing instead. You live and learn. He will also have that he should not have been convinced by me that he was ready for an intermediate slope. But hey, I was getting lonely going up and down the slopes on my own all day.

A good place to re-familiarise yourself with being back on the snow or to learn the skills. The station at the bottom is where you can find the usual eateries but also the gondola life back down to the town.

As you walk Pirin Street which leads from the ski slopes to the square, the traveller will pass bars and restaurants, often with touts trying to tempt you. Here is the restaurant I ate in on the last day when I recovered from being flu hit and bed ridden. For this reason, it gives me special memories!

While walking through the cobbled streets I came across a number of old, attractive looking buildings but also the ugly modern blocks that serve as a reminder of Bulgaria's brutal communist history and the fact that much development still needs to be done in this country. Renovated, this house like many in Bulgaria would still have plenty of charm.

From this lofty vantage point on a beautiful day, you can see right across the Razlog valley. The nearest town that can be seen is Bansko though Razlog is also in the picture.

As you exit the gondola station after the 15 minute trip from the base of the mountain you are encountered with the baby slopes on the right and the Alberto Tomba run to the left.

The most demanding slope on the mountain, the Alberto Tomba competition slope ensures it has your attention and even for fit, regular rest stops at the site are needed. At the bottom to the left you can see the baby slopes where those are found looking to renew their acquaintance with the snow or beginners can develop their skills.

A view up towards the top of the peak. The slope is moderately demanding and the snow is often deep with many bumps to keep the skier alert. Beyond this takes you up to just 146m below the Todorka peak.

In one of the many bars catering for the apres ski crowd, the barman shows a unique way of lighting a cigarette.

The Sveta Troitsa Church is surrounded by a stone wall 1m thick and 4m high. In the churchyard is Bansko's landmark - the 30m high clock tower, erected in 1850.

A nice snowy scene in the old town part of Bansko. In this part of the town, Taverns often line the road and in the evening there is a beautiful smell of wood fires and various meats being cooked.

Now this is steep. Looking down is even worse. One of the first times I came down it I had a bit of a mishap and went over on my stomach, losing a ski. While the ski stayed put, I kept going meaning a hard slog back up the slope. Two steps up and one step down, sweating and cursing, I eventually got my ski back. Funny all the same.